Wine Review: Spanish wines shine on hot days

Unless you have been away in Iceland, the South Pole or even living under a rock, you know the weather is currently very hot. The question must then arise: What wine does one go to when the weather is hot?

My suggestion when under these conditions is wines made from grapes grown in a hot climate, one among which is Spain. I have been in Spain, and I can assure the reader that it is very hot. However, there are also prodigious quantities of wine consumed by the Spanish populus all year long.

Since heat and wine grapes do not normally go well together, where do the grapes for the Spanish wines come from? Most Spanish vineyards are located on the mountainsides of the Pyrenees mountains, which straddle the border between Spain and France. There, the breezes from the mountains and those from the Bay of Biscay to the west and the Mediterranean to the east mitigate the heat and cool the vines.

That, however, is not the true secret of Spanish wines. As should be expected, the bulk of Spanish wines are made for local consumption, indicating that they are made to be enjoyed in a hot environment. Since the Spanish have been making wine for centuries, they also know how to make a wine that will maintain its flavor and aroma in hot weather. Another benefit to us in the USA, is that the Spanish cost of living is considerably lower than ours, which allows their wines to sell at extremely reasonable prices.

Beronia Crianza 2020 ($15)
The Beronia Crianza is a full-bodied blend of 96% tempranillo, 3% Garnacha and 1% mazuelo, all coming from Spain's famous Rioja grape-growing district. This wine displays an inviting red color and an aroma of cherry and raspberry with fresh ground spice in the background. The flavor continues the berry fruit flavors with the addition of hints of sweet baking spices and then ending in a long finish. If a red wine should be called for on Taco Tuesday, this is a wine that I am sure will not disappoint.

Beronia Rueda 2023 ($14)
This wine has been made from 100% verdejo, a grape variety that is little known outside of Spain but is rapidly becoming a favorite at Hispanic restaurants as the wine that can accompany almost anything on the menu. Considered similar to a sauvignon blanc, this wine presents the aromas of citrus, white summer fruits and spice, with the most prominent being fennel.

Pazo de Lusco 2023 Albarano ($25)
The Pazo de Lusco Albarano is made from local Spanish white grape the albarino, another variety that is rarely seen outside of Spain as it has a reputation of being a difficult variety to work with. Again, it is modern farming and incisive winemaking that has tamed this temperamental grape, resulting in an exceptionally fine wine. The wine displays the aromas of citrus, white summer fruits and a sensation of fresh-cut flowers. The flavor is fruity with a noticeable but inviting fruit acid background. The finish is incredibly long, ending with a note of lemon peel. This wine is a pure delight.

Tio Pepe Palomino Fino ($20)
Tio Pepe is a dry sherry wine whose name translates as “Uncle Pepe,” and it’s a perfect wine with which to enjoy a meal or to end it. The wine is a sherry, but unlike most sherry wines, it is bone dry. This wine offers a grapey aroma in concert with the aroma of olives, a suggestion of anchovies and green apples. While this mix of flavors may seem a bit different, the Tio Pepe vintners have produced a wine of great character and if the reader has never served a sherry with a meal, this wine gives you the opportunity.

Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.