Wine Review: The malbec journey from France to America

For decades, the most forgettable red wine grape in France was the malbec. It was sparsely grown, mostly in the Bordeaux region, where its only claim to fame was that it was an excellent additive to beef up lightly colored or weak cabernet sauvignon and merlot wines. When made into a wine, the French-grown malbec produced one that was super tannic, black as ink and could take as long as 25 years of aging before it was drinkable.

Somehow, probably because it was mistaken for one of the noble varieties, the vine accompanied the early Italian immigrants to Chile and Argentina in the late 1880s, and when planted there, it not only grew well but also made wines that were nothing at all like its European cousins. Gone were the heavy tannins, replaced by a softer, flavorful wine that had lost its cloak of astringency and emerged as a wine that could easily compete successfully with the other popular varieties of red wine.

The reborn malbec presented features that were not carbon copies of the cabernet sauvignon or merlot but a flavor and aroma that was easily identifiable and enjoyable. It did not take too long before the wine made its appearance in the United States and became a red wine favorite and a less expensive competitor to the usually high-priced cabernet sauvignon and merlot wines.

There was a problem, though. It is a very American habit to judge items such as wines by their price, a probable holdover from the Prohibition period where a low-selling price usually indicated a wine of extremely low quality, which my father dubbed “rat poison.” It did not take too long before the malbec wines not only overcame the price prejudice, gained the respect they deserved and became an American red wine favorite.

Trivento 2021 Reserve Malbec ($12)
For a dark red wine, the Trivento 2021 Reserve Malbec is soft, smooth and easy to drink. The wine's very dark color gives the impression of a very tannic wine, which it is not, and having a substantial body, which it does. Blueberries are the dominant aroma with plums, prunes and chocolate easily discernible along with smokey oak which follow through to a long and enjoyable finish and in my opinion, this wine is twelve bucks well spent.

Susana Balbo 2019 Signature Malbec ($24)
When the winemaker puts their name on a bottle of wine, it had better be something special – and this wine is. Susana Balbo Signature upholds the tradition. This wine is proof positive of the last statement. Again, it is the very discernible aroma of blueberries that is the most obvious with blackberries and cranberries following close behind and ending in a fruit basket finish.

Trapiche 2021 Malbec Oak Cask ($12)
Made big, bold and solid by eight months of aging in French oak barrels, this wine is a fine example of the depth that can be gained by aging a wine in oak. Cherries, plums, cinnamon and the hint of coffee are the dominant aromas along with the added complexity and flavor provided by the oak. This is truly a regal wine with the charm and bearing of a modern classic at a price that belies its true value.

Unanime 2018 Malbec ($25)
Here too, it’s the signature blueberry that dominates the aroma and flavor along with cherries, plums, cinnamon and the hints of coffee and vanilla that can also be found in the finish. I must admit that I was impressed by the quality offered by this wine and feel that it is definitely worth its selling price.

Crios 2020 Rose of Malbec ($16)
It was inevitable that if the wine grape was red someone would make a rose and that deed fell to Crios of Argentina. This dry rose wine is true to the flavors and aromas of its red sibling but also incorporates the summer flower and fresh fruit attributes of strawberry, raspberry and rose petals that are the hallmarks of a well-made rose wine.

Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.