Business Spotlight

The former head chef

of two area restaurants had always dreamed of running his own place

by Steven Nix-Ennen

SBJ Contributing Writer

Pappy's Place is a taste of Springfield history that hasn't changed much in its 75 years of service. The 943 N. Main barbecue restaurant and bar has been in its original location, with much of the original decor and a continuing reverence to its classic menu, for its entire history.

The eatery's reputation, style and fare are such staples in Springfield history that new owner Scott Keese feared making any changes when he took the reins in January 1997.

Many of the photos on the walls, and other decorations, tell the story of the cafe, opened in 1924 by George and Mary Bills. In 1972, the restaurant focused on barbecue and has kept that focus since.

"This place is an institution," said Keese. "I didn't want to change it a lot. I took over after only four owners, so everything I do here has to be proven."

Instead of changing, Keese has added elements of his own style to the menu. The 38-year-old Keese has a long history manning the Springfield grills.

The former head chef of Clary's American Grill and Nonna's Italian American Cafe, Keese has brought elements of his varied training to the standard barbecue of Pappy's. Cajun and Mexican food blend with the traditional Ozarks smoked barbecue, and don't be surprised to find more sublime dishes, such as stuffed pork tenderloin.

"There is a lot of grilling and frying that goes on here, so I make lots of specials that use something different," Keese said. "That's the beauty of it. I can do whatever I want (in creating the menu). The regulars seem to really enjoy it."

Gaining the acceptance of the regular customers is a paramount concern for Keese. Pappy's has always been a place reliant upon its regular customers, and Keese has a great deal of respect and appreciation for their business.

The clientele is varied. Kids come in for sodas after school. The nearby courthouse contributes customers from both sides of the bench. Families and farmers, accountants and ruggers stop in for the distinctive atmosphere and food.

Keese closes shop at 8:30 p.m. to ensure that the bar crowd remains respectable and families feel comfortable. Keese counts himself as a Pappy's regular off-and-on through his own history here.

A New Jersey native, Keese moved to Springfield with his parents in 1976. He and his wife, Debbie, went to Pappy's for their first date on Halloween 14 years ago.

"Some of the regulars have been coming here for 30 years or more," he said. "I know I'm often scrutinized, so I get as much feedback as I can from the customers and waitresses. I just try to better myself every time."

Keese has always dreamed of running his own place. Although he has always been instrumental in the operations of the other restaurants, he enjoys the creative freedom and autonomy of Pappy's ownership.

"I should have done this 10 years ago," said Keese. "I highly recommend it for anyone who has a dream in the back of their mind. The hard work is nothing compared to the satisfaction you get."

Keese is proud to be part of the tradition and character of Pappy's. The restaurant's neighborhood loyalty is so strong that Pappy's still celebrates the life of one of its deceased six-day-a-week regulars, Jim Hacker, on Dec. 23. A strong believer in what he calls "mom and pop" restaurants, Keese is determined to retain the heritage of local gathering places such as this.

"I believe in this kind of business," he said. "This is a meeting place. People do business over lunch. Families come for dinner. It's a neighborhood bar, too. I think there are very few of these places left."

Still, for the veteran cook, the emphasis is on the food. Debbie works with him and concentrates on the baking. The barbecue sauce is sold in bottles and the pair do catering and carry-out as well.

Keese said he has no plans for great changes or expansion of his 32-seat and patio operation in the future. And changes to the interior would well sacrifice its integrity. The menu encapsulates the sentiment: "Welcome to Pappy's Place: It ain't much, but we call it home. Where the beer is cold, the food superb, and company divine."

"This place is on the borderline of being a joint," Keese said proudly. "There is a fine line between a shambles and character. Luckily this place has a lot of character."

PAPPY'S PLACE:

Founded 1924

Purchased in 1997 by Scott Keese

Open 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.

Monday through Saturday

11 a.m.-6 p.m. on Sunday

866-8744

INSET CAPTION:

'There is a fine line between a shambles and character. Luckily this place has a lot of character.'

Scott Keese

Pappy's Place

PHOTO CAPTION:

Adding to the menu while maintaining the 75-year Pappy's tradition is a welcome challenge for owner Scott Keese. See Steve Nix-Ennen's Spotlight on page 10.[[In-content Ad]]