Sicily has, for years, been given a bad rap, for being the most troubling province of the Roman Empire, to the birthplace of the Mafia, to being the brunt of Italian dictator Benito Mussolini’s ire. Sicily and the Sicilian people have been looked down upon.
Despite the bigotry and prejudice, the people of Sicily have remained proud of and loyal to their island province. One of their areas of pride has been their wines. While their southern location has a very warm climate, Sicily has some mountainous regions, which produce exceptional and very much sought after wines.
As far back as the Roman Empire, Sicilian wines have been prized. Stemmari is one of the producers who has upheld and continued the historic reputation of Sicilian wine.
Stemmari 2012 Nero d’Avola ($10) Nero translates from Italian as black, and that is what this wine displays: a dark, almost inky ruby color, which is coupled with a full body.
The aroma offers currant, strawberries, pomegranate and cranberry in great abundance. The flavor mirrors the aroma with the addition of a background of mild oak ending in a velvety, fruity finish.
If there ever was a wine specifically designed to accompany traditional red sauce Sicilian pasta dishes, this is it.
Stemmari 2012 Pinot Noir ($10)This is an elegant wine expressing all the intensity Sicilian wines are noted for. No, this is not a great Burgundian pinot noir, nor is it an outstanding California version of this variety. However, it’s a fuller bodied, affordable Sicilian expression of this popular wine.
A ruby red color greets the eye, while the aroma features notes of matured fruits like blackberries, wild strawberries and cherries. The background of spice is derived from its aging in wooden barrels. The flavor continues the fruits found in the aroma, as does the finish.
Stemmari 2012 Dalila ($14)This wine is a symphony of flavors and aromas. The wine is a blend of 80 percent of the native Sicilian grillo grape and viognier. This aromatic wine exudes the elegance and sophistication of a classical white wine, but this one does it with a smile on its face.
In this wine, the grillo brings intense notes of mango intermingled with a suggestion of white flowers and stone fruits. The viognier offers notes of peach, apricot and citrus with a hint of wildflowers, honey, vanilla and oak.
Dalila is a great change from the old standby white wines and an opportunity to expand your wine tasting horizons.
Stemmari 2011 Cantodoro ($14) Cantodoro is interpreted as “song of gold,” which is certainly what this wine is. It seems the Sicilian vintners have taken a page out of the Australian vintners’ book by blending the indigenous Nero d’Avola grape with 20 percent cabernet savignon. This wine was fermented and aged in oak barrels so oak will be a noticeable participant in the wine’s attributes.
The color is dark ruby, and the aromas of blackberries, raspberries and cranberries, with hints of anise, are very obvious. The flavor is clean and fruity and the finish, explosive.
This wine is another trip away from the same-old, same-old and a chance to take a walk on the wild side.
Stemmari 2012 Moscato ($10)One would expect the torrid climate of Sicily to produce some very fine sweet wines - and it does.
The wine’s flavors are reminiscent of hibiscus, geranium, white peach, apricot and wild clover honey. Also fresh tasting, it cleanses the palate and finishes slightly sweet without a sugary aftertaste.
Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.
