We have written many times about the dynamics of the wine industry and the effect climate change can have on it.
While the gods of weather have frowned upon the California vineyards in recent years, they have been more than generous to those of the state of Oregon and most specifically, the Willamette Valley home of Van Duzer Vineyards.
Van Duzer 2014 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Rose ($18) Rose wines are usually an afterthought made from the leftovers of red wine fermentation and are rarely of any serious quality. That’s not the case with this wine. The only difference between this wine and a regular pinot noir is that the skins of the grapes are allowed to remain with the juice used to make the wine for just enough time to tint it rose pink.
What results is a dry wine that captures all the flavor and aroma nuances of the pinot noir grape and presents them in the free and open fruity style of a rose wine. The aroma is filled with scents of wildflowers, strawberries and licorice. The flavor stresses strawberries and watermelon, which follow through to the long and clean finish.
Van Duzer 2014 Estate Pinot Gris ($18) Pinot gris, aka pinot grigio, is a white wine originating in Italy that’s found a new home in Oregon. The soil and climate there have blessed the vineyards with near-perfect pinot gris growing conditions.
The result is a wine displaying a pale golden color and a rich aroma of citrus, honeysuckle, apple and pear backed up by a hint of nectarine. The flavor is heavy with the sensation of pear and melon, which carry over to the fruity and complex finish. A very noticeable feature of this wine is its effective, although restrained, acid level.
Van Duzer 2014 Riesling ($20)This riesling was made in the modern dry style and is specifically directed at those who want to enjoy the variety without the excessive sweetness often associated with it. This is a dynamic wine that accentuates all of the fruit flavors that the riesling grape can deliver.
Apricot runs through the aroma along with orange blossom and raisins. The aroma has a jasmine quality about it as well as a suggestion of violets. The flavor mirrors the aroma with the addition of a lemon suggestion.
This wine begs to be served with Asian dishes as well as seafood, pork, veal or lamb.
Van Duzer 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($32) The Van Duzer 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is among the finest examples of an American pinot noir we’ve tasted in a while.
This wine displays an aroma of cranberry, blueberry, raspberry, cherry and plum, with suggestions of chocolate and black tea in the background. The flavor incorporates all the elements of the aroma, where they merge with blackberries, blueberries, vanilla and oak and end in a long, fruity finish.
Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at frojhe@suddenlink.net.
