In this day of easy access to people via social media, it takes guts for a winemaker to put his name on a bottle of wine; that is if their wines are not up to their asking price.
Winemaker Paul Dolan has nothing to worry about there.
Dolan started his winery in 2006 with the goal of making wine from organic grapes coming only from Mendocino County, Calif., and vinifying them with native yeast.
A bit of an explanation is required here. If you’ve ever noticed the white powdery bloom on a plum or on grapes, that is naturally occurring yeast. Those yeasts are usually killed prior to fermentation and the winemakers add known varieties of cultured yeast. These guide the finished wine in a predetermined specific direction, while wild yeast can often turn on a winemaker and ruin a batch of wine. Some naturally occurring yeast is indigenous to the area they come from.
In this case, Mendocino County offers a specific flavor and aroma effect, which is exactly what Dolan is after.
Paul Dolan Vineyards 2013 Sauvignon Blanc ($18)While this wine is a true Californian, it hints at its European ancestry by exhibiting a haunting, flinty character rarely found in savignon blanc wines from California.
The rest of the flavors and aromas are purely California, stressing kiwi, citrus and the slightest hint of lemon grass. This is a really fine wine for just sipping, but it also does a great job of accompanying shellfish, seafood, salads and chicken.
Paul Dolan Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay ($18) This is a bright and crisp wine, presenting a fine balance between the fruit flavors and the acid.
The chardonnay aromas of pineapple, apple and citrus carry over to the flavor, where they mingle with vanilla and soft oak. The wine also has a creamy mouth feel and manages a bit of summer fruit flavor in the background and finish.
This style of wine proves a nice complement to roasted poultry, grilled seafood, veal-based dishes and lighter pasta dishes.
Paul Dolan Vineyards 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)Dolan outdoes himself with this presentation. This wine is a California show piece displaying all of the classical flavors of a cabernet savignon but in the big, fruity, wide-open California style.
The flavors are big and jammy, showcasing cranberries, pomegranates and fresh summer berries intertwined with vanilla and oak. A long and delightfully fruity finish caps off the wine. Forget about what foods go with a cabernet savignon and just enjoy this one.
Paul Dolan Vineyards 2012 Pinot Noir ($30) The Paul Dolan winemakers brought the best out of this difficult grape.
The traditional aromas of cherries and rose petals that are the signature of pinot noir wines are prominent and melded with the aroma of cranberries. The cranberry carries over to the flavor, where it joins with cherry, plum and hints of cinnamon, clove, dark chocolate, oak and vanilla that comfortably reside in the background. These flavors then follow through to the finish where they slowly trail off, ending in a fruity smoky sensation.
This is an impressive pinot noir and definitely deserves your attention.
Paul Dolan Vineyards 2012 Zinfandel ($25) Zinfandel wines can often be memorable, and this zin surely is.
The Paul Dolan Vineyards 2012 Zinfandel is a big, bold wine that proudly announces its attributes. The color is a deep garnet and presents the aromas of raspberry and boysenberry with hints of vanilla and brown sugar. The flavor, which mirrors the aroma, totally fills the mouth and lingers for an extraordinarily long time.
This is really a grand wine, and it would be a pity if you miss it.
Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.
