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Wine Review: Quality first, sweetness second

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As wine journalists, we are supposed to be totally impartial, but we must admit we are not perfect. Our partiality does not lean toward the super labels such as Mondavi’s Opus One, Chateau Lafite, Chateau Latour, Far Niente and the rest of the big boys. We do like these wines, but our interest is centered on the more affordable wines.

The reason is simple - we do not know many people who can afford to put a $100 bottle of wine on their dinner table every night or, for that matter, even occasionally. Our goal is to search out affordable wines, which are easily found in the marketplace, that show quality.

When we find a wine that fits these parameters, it is our duty to let our readers know about it. As we have often said, we are seeking a $5 wine that drinks like a $50 and not the reverse.     

One of the producers we are partial to is Don Sebastiani & Sons. The Sebastiani family goes back four generations, and currently, Donny Sebastiani has taken the helm, continuing the winemaking philosophy of his father Don, his grandfather August and the founder of the dynasty, Samuele. Whatever the magic is, all of the wines he sells have the same old time Sebastiani commitment to quality, while continuing to maintain reasonable prices. In truth, we have never tasted any wine from any Sebastiani that has not been of the highest quality and well worth more than its price tag indicates.        

Now, in recognition of current wine trends in this country, they have released three new sweet wines under their Smoking Loon label. Please pardon our prejudice, but as usual, these wines are excellent. They are not just sugary sweet, quickly made wines, but carefully thought out and made specifically to appeal to those who enjoy sweet wines but do not want the thoughtless “sugar water” that currently permeates the market.

Among the most sought after sweet wines in the world is Chateau d’Yquem from Bordeaux, a wine that commands hundreds of dollars a bottle. The Smoking Loon wines do not challenge that French Chateau but they do share the same philosophy - quality first, followed by sweetness.
 
Smoking Loon 2012 Red Loonatic ($8)
This is not just a slapped-together wine made from any red grapes that could be picked up cheap. This wine has been crafted to impart specific characteristics by selecting grape varieties for the flavors and aromas that impart to the finished wine.

What resulted is a wine offering the aromas of black cherry, violets and blueberry jam, with hints of cedar and vanilla. These aromas meld into the flavor, along with caramel and milk chocolate, which trail off to a very enticing finish.

Sweet wine lovers, this wine is a treat; dry wine lovers, try it, you just may like it.
 
Smoking Loon 2012 White Loonatic ($8)
This wine is another example of Don Sebastiani’s commitment to quality. The major constituents of this wine are viognier and chardonnay, both of which are definitely not cheap grapes to buy.

The wine opens with the aromas of pear and fresh ginger, backed up by hints of toasted marshmallow and bread. The flavor presents nectarines, peach and vanilla. This wine is perfect to accompany most grilled pork dishes, as well as late summer vegetables.

It is definitely no slouch as a sipping wine on a quiet outdoor summer evening.
 
Smoking Loon 2012 Blue Loon Moscato ($8)
Moscato wines are made from the muscat grape and are always sweet and full-bodied.

They have an almost overpowering aroma, heavy with the perfume of apricot, orange blossom and lilac. On the palate, the flavors of mango and melon are balanced by a background of citrus.

This is the perfect tailgate, barbecue or picnic wine. It is almost a guarantee it will liven up any party.
 
Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.

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