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Wine Review: Cannonball winemaker deserves tribute

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When we talk about wines, we usually speak about the qualities of the wine but rarely even mention the winemaker and his or her talents in the creation of the final product.

A good winemaker will husband the wine throughout its entire process, from the growing of the grapes in the field to the labeling of the bottle. Unfortunately, winemakers rarely get the credit they deserve, unless the wine turns out to be a real stinker.

As proof of this, in 1976, the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay beat the pants off of all of the other wines in the famous or, depending on your nationality, infamous Paris wine tasting. Few, if any, people know the winemaker behind that winning wine was our own Mike Grgich, who was unknown to the public at that time and has rarely been credited for the accomplishment.
 
Cannonball Wine Co. falls into the affordable class and the winemakers of this class of wines are often overlooked, much as is the sous-chef, who is the second-in-command of a kitchen, but works under a master chef. It is the winemaker who determines each and every facet of the final wine, from what yeast to use, how long to ferment, procedures during fermentation, how long the wine should age in barrels and whether the wine should be blended with other varities.
 
In the case of Cannonball, it is Dennis Hill who is at the helm. Hill has been the father of several prize-winning wines, so with him in charge, Cannonball wines start life a step ahead of the others in its price class.
 
Cannonball 2011 Sonoma County Merlot ($15)
Dennis Hill has produced a fruity wine that accentuates all of the features merlot is famous for.

The Cannonball 2011 Sonoma County Merlot accents pomegranate, fig and cocoa in both the flavor and aroma. There is also a long-lasting finish that will linger in the memory, accenting raspberry and chocolate.

While we are usually very hard on merlot wines, this one stands up to our most critical touchstones and does so with flying colors. If you are a  merlot fan or not, do try this one - it might surprise you.
 
Cannonball 2012 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($15)
The Cannonball 2012 Sonoma County Chardonnay is bright and crisp, with an almost perfect balance between the fruit flavors and the natural acid.

The traditional chardonnay aromas of citrus and apple carry over to the flavor and then move on to the finish, which also presents the often missing soft creamy mouth feel and a bit of oak flavor in the background.

This is an excellent drink for anything that calls for a white wine.
 
Cannonball 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15)
This wine is a truly fine selection made in the classical Bordeaux style, while still retaining the California heritage of up-front fruit.

The wine is dry and heavy with the aromas of blackberries, cocoa and fresh spices. The fruit aromas carry over to the flavor along with blueberry, dark chocolate and just the right amount of oak and cedar.

It is a beautiful and well-made wine and a tribute to Dennis Hill’s winemaking talents.  
 
Cannonball North Coast 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
This wine is a major sidestep from the usual dull and boring style of  sauvignon blanc we run into all too often in the lower-priced brands.

It is a dry white wine that is alive with bright fruity flavors, a modest acid level and soft approachable oak. There are the broad aromas and rich flavors of honeysuckle, kiwi, guava, peach, honeydew melon and mandarin oranges, all presented in elegant abundance.

If you have tired of the ordinary white wine fare, don't wait for this wine to disappear from dealer's shelves, for the supply is limited. Search some out now, and trust us, you will want more than one bottle.

Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.

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