Wine Review: Cabernet sauvignon releases herald arrival of red wine season

It was a simple request to producers and wholesalers: Do you have a cabernet sauvignon that you would like me to review?

Since the variety is the world's most popular red wine, I wanted to do a column on it prior to the first cold weather, which is also the unofficial opening of the red wine season. Aug. 29 also marked International Cabernet Day, which is celebrated on the Thursday before Labor Day.

All went well until I was informed by FedEx that there was a 28-pound package headed to me. I assumed it was wine, as it wasn’t my birthday, and I had not ordered anything on the internet. Although I occasionally do get wine sent to my home, a 28-pound package initiated a bit of apprehension. When it arrived, much to my surprise, it was full of an assortment of cabernet sauvignon wines.

I had recently written a column on the variety that had been published and promptly forgotten by me as I moved on to my next topic. Whatever subject that I had in mind suddenly and dramatically changed to Cabernet Sauvignon Part 2 or perhaps Cabernet Sauvignon Revisited.

Lievland South African Cabernet Sauvignon ($23)
If the reader has never sampled a South African cabernet sauvignon, this wine will be a pleasant experience. The wine presents a deep red-purple color and sparkling clarity. The aromas are equally impressive, presenting explosive berry aromas along with oak and wild herbs. Many of these aromas carry over to the flavor along with an earthy component often found in better cabs. The tannins are there, as would be expected, but they are not fierce or overaccentuated, making the wine drinkable now or in the future with a little extra bottle aging.

Las Mulas 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ($18)
Yes, the name is Spanish for mules, which I am happy to say has absolutely nothing to do with the flavor, taste or aroma of this wine. Made from organically grown grapes, this Chilian offering is a full-flavored wine with everything one seeks in a fine cab – and at an affordable price. The wine displays a bright ruby color, with intense dark cherry, cedar, vanilla and cinnamon aromas. Plum, boysenberry, cranberry and cherry flavors blend with a fascinating mineral element. The wine ends in a velvety soft finish which is fruity, soft and long. At the first taste of this wine, you will know why Chilean cabernet sauvignon wines are becoming so popular.

Boekenhoutskloof 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($44)
Here is a wine with a very Dutch name that does not come from Holland but instead from South Africa, a nation with deep and old Dutch roots. It’s a full-flavored wine with all of the flavors and aromas one seeks in a better cab. The wine displays a bright ruby color, and the unmistakable South African aromas of cherry, cedar, vanilla and cinnamon are present. This wine, too, ends in a velvety soft, fruity finish. While this wine is a bit costly, I found it to be worth every penny of its price.

Stark-Conde Cabernet Sauvignon ($29)
This well-made cabernet sauvignon comes from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa and is a wine that offers a deep garnet color to introduce depth, flavor, warmth, finesse and a pronounced pomegranate and licorice aroma. This wine prominently displays a strong cherry and berry aroma ending in a warm, pleasant earthy flavor with a background of cedar and nutmeg.

Bulletin 2023 Australian Cabernet Sauvignon ($15)
Here is a wine that presents a full fruit flavor and aroma, stressing all of the fruits one loves to find in a well-made cab as well as a very respectable acid balance. The finish is long, complex and fruity. This is another fine wine from a notable Australian wine producer.

Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.