Travel Notes: Maui much more than beautiful white beaches

Linda Strait is manager of Great Southern House of Travel, a full-service travel agency in Springfield.

Many people envision Maui, Hawaii, as miles of resorts rimming white sand beaches, island music and pina coladas. There is a different Maui, however; one that appeals to the adventure traveler.

Still largely wilderness, Maui offers biking, camping, hiking, whale watching, horseback riding, snorkeling and diving.

Biking: Maui County has been building bicycle lanes on all its major roads since 1991. Visitors can unload their bikes at the airport and cycle to their hotels. Few vacation destinations support bikers with the enthusiasm that Maui does.

For those who don't have bikes, they can be rented. One of Maui's most popular outdoor activities is biking Haleakala. The 38-mile trip begins at the 10,023-foot high summit of the volcano and is all downhill. The trip takes approximately three hours at a slow pace with frequent rest stops. If you want more independent or difficult biking, there are tours that go into the back-road areas.

Camping: There are three county, two state, and four national campgrounds on Maui. Permits are needed in most places to camp. Cabins are very popular and require reservations. Camping in a volcano at Haleakala National Park or in a misty forest at the 6,200-foot level of Haleakala can be a beautiful, inspiring experience. If you prefer oceanfront camping, Kipahulu is one of the prettiest areas of the island. It is located in Haleakala National Park. No permits are needed there.

Hiking: Hiking allows you to see the extraordinary diversity of Maui lava deserts, tropical jungles, bamboo forests and towering mountains. There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails on Maui, most of them unmarked.

Guided hikes are lead by park rangers at Haleakala and Ohe'o Gulch, but if you want to hike unmarked areas on your own, Robert Smith's book "Hiking Maui," is a help.

The best-known guide service on the island is Hike Maui. Naturalist Ken Schmitt started the company after living off of the land for several years in Maui's jungles, studying nature.

Ancient Lahaina Pali Trail, a 5-mile path along the ocean cliffs from Ma'alaea to Ukumehame, has been reopened. The state's goal is to eventually clear a trail that goes all around Maui, which will duplicate the 16th century Pi'ilani Highway. It was the first walking path built around the island.

Whale watching: Humpback whales live in Maui waters from mid-December to mid-May. During that time, whale watching is the island's top visitor activity.

The humpbacks migrate 3,000 to 4,000 miles from their summer home in Alaska. They eat tons of fish in Alaska, but don't eat again until they return. While fasting in Hawaii waters, they give birth and nurse their young.

Whale-watching boats can get no closer than 100 yards to them; aircraft 1,000 feet. The humpbacks are on the endangered, protected list.

Horseback riding: Horses can take you to the inner regions of Maui where Jeeps cannot go. There are many stables on the island, accommodating many levels of riding ability.

Snorkeling/diving: Rental of snorkeling gear is very inexpensive, and scuba diving is extraordinary. The Cathedrals at Lanai is reported to be one of the best dive spots in the world. For experienced divers, cave and lava tube diving are grand adventures.

Maui is wild and wonderful beyond the beaches, but you must seek it out.