Opinion: Federalist label scores one for American wines

Are you a Republican, a Democrat, an independent or a conspiracy theorist? Perhaps you’re an impartial observer or what Winston Churchill called a mugwump – with your mug on one side of the political fence and your wump on the other?

In this time of avid political rhetoric, I announce that I am a devoted, card-carrying Federalist; The Federalist wine that is. I must admit that in these hyperpolitical days, The Federalist label is very much in tune with the times. Besides being a well-made affordable American wine, The Federalist wines are about as American as it gets. On the label and on the foil-top covering, there appears, in plain sight, the legendary “Made in the United States of America.” That bit of ethnocentrism makes me proud of The Federalist as an American entity as well as a producer of excellent and innovative wines.

The Federalist Bourbon Barrel Aged 2017 
Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)
Once upon a time, in a merry old land called California, a winemaker accidently aged his cabernet sauvignon in barrels formerly used to age bourbon and a new flavor sensation was born. Whether the use of old bourbon barrels to age cabernet sauvignon was accidental or well thought out, the results are incredible. The American whiskey flavors that were locked in the staves of the barrel when married with the wine added no extra alcohol nor any overly specific flavor but rather a series of what could best be described as the suggestions of oak and vanilla – and a hint of smoke. This wine is a very interesting and novel beverage. If you believe that The Federalist vintners sat back and just reveled in what they accomplished, you are greatly mistaken.

The Federalist Bourbon Barrel Aged 2016 Zinfandel ($25)
I suspect that after their success with the bourbon-barrel cabernet sauvignon, another variety was waiting in the wings, and what better variety to “bourbonize” than the very multifaceted zinfandel. Since zinfandel is a very full-flavored wine, the question that must have arisen: Would bourbon aging help or hinder the variety? If you have enjoyed a dry red zinfandel in the past, wait until you sample this one. The basic fruit flavors and aromas associated with the variety are all there, cradled in a cloud of vanilla and a not too subtle hint of oak. The finish of this wine is very long, very fruity and very hard to forget.

The Federalist 2018 “Benjamin Franklin” Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)
This wine is for those traditionalists among us who look at wine as something that should not be “monkeyed with” and who prefer the traditional varieties. This “Benjamin Franklin” is not a French knockoff but is about as American as a wine can get. It has an inviting deep red color, a medium body and presents the flavor and aroma of blackberries, blueberries and cranberries, with hints of cinnamon. These aromas carry over to mingle with a suggestion of oak and soft spices. There also is no need for any further bottle aging as is often the case with a better cabernet sauvignon; this 2018 vintage is ready to enjoy right now.

Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.