Microbrew Review: Boulevard's Saison-Brett puts wine twist on beer

Kansas City and Brett. Now that brings back memories.

Has it really been 20 years since the Royals, with Hall of Famer George Brett, were any good?

Seriously, though, we're talking about K.C.'s Boulevard Brewing Co. and brettanomyces, a yeast strain that wine connoisseurs throughout the years have learned to either love or hate. Now beer aficionados are getting the chance to experience "brett" in Boulevard Brewing's special limited release Saison-Brett Ale.

"Saison" is French for season, and the style of beer originated in south Belgium, where farmers would traditionally brew this "farmhouse ale" in the cold of winter to be enjoyed in the heat of the next summer.

The winds of change are blowing among beer drinkers in the United States, and a new season where people are seeking out small-production, artisan beers is creeping in among the major brands that have dominated the shelves for so long.

In Springfield, if you know where to look, beers can be bought that were made in Germany, France, Austria, Italy, Wisconsin and, of course, Missouri. Even in the supermarkets, where Heineken and Corona used to be the extent of imports and "specialty" beers, you can now buy microbrews with names such as Hefe-Wizen, Stout and Unfiltered Wheat.

Saison-Brett is the latest from Boulevard's Smokestack Series, which consists of limited release ales sold in 750 mL (22.5 fluid ounces) corked wine bottles. At a wine-like 8.5 percent alcohol by volume, this is a strong, but definitely not an overbearing, beer. Saisons have a complex, fruity and slightly spicy character, and the "brett" is added to impart an earthiness that is often referred to as a "barnyard" element in wine.

At Vino 100, I picked up bottle No. 6,522 out of 11,950 in the Boulevard series and sampled it over two days with and without food. At $13 a bottle, it is expensive for beer, but I found it to be well worth its asking price.

Locally, the Mueller ales and lagers, which are sold in Price Cutter and Brown Derby stores, are the label of our own local brewery, Springfield Brewing Co. Mueller's Unfiltered Wheat, Pale Ale and Munich Lager are staples of production, while seasonal offerings and dark porters will satisfy those looking for something beyond the usual.

Want to try your hand at making your own porter, stout, Hefe-Wizen or even Saison? Hop online or tool on down to Ozark, where The Home Brewery, www.homebrewery.com, has everything you need to start a microbrewery right in your own home. For beginners, they sell complete kits where you literally just follow the instructions and end up with beer. For those who are further along, everything from yeast to grains to the actual equipment you need for brewing on any level can be bought at the store or ordered online.