Cashew Chicken Chronicles, Part I: Low-priced Plates

Runners Up
Peking House
3108 E. Sunshine St.

No cafeteria tray here, so it is a little more upscale. This suggestion came from a couple of reader recommendations. Stephanie Jones writes, "I am originally from Springfield, but have lived in Arkansas for quite some time. I never miss a chance to eat at Peking House every time I visit the city." Tracy Roberson says, "Peking House on East Sunshine is by far the best Chinese food in Springfield. Always good, hot, fast and great service! I've gone there since 1990 and have turned many people onto them." After eating there, we agree it is a good choice.

The daily special is $4.59 (plus 50 cents for white meat), or a combo for $5.89. Peking House serves a dark sauce, with light breading on the chicken and plenty of cashew pieces. This restaurant certainly wins for speed of order - it was hot, fresh and fast. Our order had 12 good-size pieces, and the rice had nice bits of egg. The ambiance is nice, with a bamboo garden in the entryway. We had the occasional exceptional bite, in which the chicken was tender and moist, but it wasn't uniform. We'd try it again.

Chopsticks
1128 S. Glenstone Ave.

This is one we've passed hundreds of times and apparently does a big college business. We ran into two patrons who told us, "We pretty much keep them in business." Nathan Gronli and Michael Clark, who came to Springfield to attend Evangel University, started going to Chopsticks on the recommendation of friends. Identified on the menu simply as "CC," a small order is $2.69 and a large is $3.69, which perhaps accounts for the student popularity. It came with nine, nicely breaded pieces and a dark sauce, but the chicken was poor quality.

Shanghai Inn
1937 N. Glenstone Ave.

We've visited this one before but it had been years, and the years have not been good to Shanghai Inn. We walked in to find a pile of dirt left in customer's view, with the inactive broom nearby. Undaunted, we placed our order - $4.29 for a regular, although we could have chosen $6.95 for a large, or $4.55 for the CC combo with egg roll, rice and wontons.

It had the darker sauce that tended in other places to be more flavorful, and it was hot, with a crispy crust to the breading. There were 11 pieces of chicken, cashew pieces, fluffy rice and fast service. Once past the housekeeping, it was good food.

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China Castle
1231 W. Kearney St.

The employee on duty told us that this restaurant was known for its buffet, although no one was taking advantage of it during our time there. The exterior is run down (only the Riksha was in more need of a paint job), but the service was courteous and the inside was clean.

We had our choice of a regular for $3.59 (plus $.75 for all-white meat), or a combo for $4.25, including egg roll, crab Rangoon and rice. The plate had eight small pieces of chicken and a watery sauce with decent flavor but lacking texture and substance. The chicken was not great quality, and the meal was very salty. Good enough, and hot, but not enough to return.

Riksha
222 Park Central North

We had to get one downtown, right? Still, it was with trepidation that we entered - only to find an environment where regular customers were welcomed warmly and people found obvious enjoyment in their food. The special consisted of cashew chicken, fried rice, egg roll and wontons for $3.75. Ours came with 12 pieces of tough chicken. The sauce had a dishwater taste. Bottom line: The Riksha is OK if you want convenience and are a downtown regular, but don't go out of your way.

Thai Xpress
948 S. Glenstone Ave.

We went here with high hopes since it was in the old Bamboo Inn building, where our personal romance with cashew chicken started, and because it had received a reader recommendation. However, its saltiness cried out monosodium glutamate, and it was one of four places where we left food behind.

The cashew special with fried rice is $5; the combo with fried rice, egg roll and fried wonton is $5.95. The special gave us 10 pieces of chicken and a healthy portion of rice, but only a few cashew pieces. The meat had very little breading and was essentially flavorless.

This used to be a carry-out only, and perhaps that remains their specialty. Our advice is don't bother to eat in.Paul K. Logsdon is director of public relations and publications for Evangel University, and Kay Logsdon is director of the Food Channel for Noble. They have written restaurant reviews for 25 years.