Business Spotlight: A Cut Above

Meat processing is a dirty job. But, as they say, someone’s got to do it.

David Walker grew up around it. His parents, Jim “Tod” and Bonnie Walker co-founded Oldfield Packing LLC in Sparta in the late 1960s. By 1980, after graduating high school, the younger Walker was working full-time in the business. Now, the work is second nature.

“It takes somebody who doesn’t care to get a little messy, especially on the slaughter end of it,” he says. “Not everybody is cut out for it.”

The kill floor is the big hurdle. Though new hires have been sparse due to employee longevity, Walker directs applicants to observe slaughterhouse operations before proceeding with interviews – just to be sure they’re one of those cut out for it.

Today, the eight-member Oldfield Packing staff is gearing up for the busiest time of year: deer season.

With firearms hunting opening Nov. 14, Walker says Oldfield expects to process 500 deer this year.

Custom cuts
Throughout the year, the company processes and packages 12,000-15,000 pounds of beef a week. Custom processing represents three-quarters of its $800,000 annual revenue, and beef packaging roughly triples pork orders.

He also works with distributors Springfield Grocer Co. and Packers Distributing Co. for orders to sell retail. Oldfield’s meat counter is stocked with burgers, steaks, sausage, bacon, some fish and chicken – and bratwurst, the latest popular addition.

Packers Distributing buyer Darren Vaughn says Walker buys more than meat in order to fill out Oldfield’s small storefront. In a town with less than 2,000 people, Walker also offers typical grocery items, such as deli meats and cheeses, bottled drinks, barbecue sauce and charcoal.

But customers come for the fresh meat.

“Dave is what I would call old school,” Vaughn says. “You don’t go to Oldfield to get what you’d get at a grocery store.”

Among Packers’ 1,200 clients across the four-state area, Walker’s weekly $2,000-$2,500 orders are sure to have beef shoulder clod, he says. Walker trims it, chunks it, chops it, grinds it and freezes it.

“He grinds it right out of the primal cut, which is a whole lot better. He takes it that extra step,” Vaughn says.

Once processed, vacuum-sealed and frozen, Walker says ground chuck is the biggest seller.

“People who are coming to me want something to put in their freezer,” Walker says.

These days, though, there are fewer custom meat processors for consumers to visit.

According to the Carthage-based Missouri Association of Meat Processors, at least 120 plants operate in the state, representing a slow decline over the last decade or two.

“There are fewer cows and pigs out there. You won’t have as many processors,” says Niki Cloud, executive secretary of the 76-year-old association.

Cloud also points to the nature of the work.

“You’re dealing with dead animals and handling raw meat,” she says. “There are not many people who want to get their hands dirty like that.”

As processors go out of business, they’re not getting replaced at an equal rate.

“It’s like a doubled-edged sword,” Cloud adds. “There are declines. But the ones that are in business are thriving because we are back to that grow local, eat local.”

Share the Harvest
Oldfield is on the state’s list of meat processors participating in the Missouri Department of Conservation’s Share the Harvest program. Others in Greene and Christian counties that will process venison for donation are Ozark Meat Co. in Ozark, J & L Custom Processing in Walnut Grove and Turner Meat Processing in Fair Grove.

During the 2014 deer seasons, 3,967 hunters donated more than 213,443 pounds of venison to Missouri families, according to the state department.

In the program this year, the state is covering $65 of the companies’ roughly $100 deer processing fees. Oldfield also has partnered with White River Valley Electric Cooperative to cover the remaining cost. With the co-op’s Operation Round Up funds – collected from customers rounding their bills to the next highest dollar – White River Valley Electric organizers distribute the venison within its five-county service area.

“I hate to charge a guy when he’s trying to donate a deer,” Walker says. “It works out nice for a hunter who likes to hunt but doesn’t like or need the meat.”