Authentic Japanese cuisine served up at Haruno

by Kris Ann Hegle

SBJ Contributing Writer

It's Friday night, and the sound of jazz music fills the air at Haruno. Owner Youngsun Jung, dressed in a kimono, shows a group of guests to their table.

Back at the sushi bar, Chef Byung Chun has captured the attention of a group of patrons who are watching him carefully slice fresh fish into wedges and masterfully arrange them onto a tiny wooden serving platter shaped like a boat.

Meanwhile Yoshio Nakatani, Haruno's head chef who has more than 25 years' experience, is cooking up some shrimp tempura in the back kitchen. Like the sushi, it is skillfully arranged into a work of edible art before being presented to Susan Kuhl, a regular customer.

"My family used to live in Hawaii, and I know good Japanese food," Kuhl said. "The quality of the food here is the best in town, and the service is excellent."

Haruno, which means "Springfield" in Japanese, opened its doors in January.

Although the restaurant is still relatively new, it already is building up a steady clientele, according to Jung.

While most Japanese restaurants serve meals Teppanyaki-style, where the cook prepares meat dishes right in front of customers in an artistic and quick manner, every meal at Haruno is made and served in traditional Japanese fashion.

The flavor of authenticity comes from the restaurant's owners.

Students from area high schools, colleges and universities in and around Springfield come to Haruno to test their language skills. Many also get their first taste of sushi there.

Youngsun Jung and her husband John Dongwook Jung own the restaurant along with a business partner who lives in California.

The combination of all the owners' different styles can be seen at Haruno, which blends Japanese traditions with a touch of American culture.

According to Youngsun Jung, who decorated the restaurant's interior, the warm colors used to paint the walls and soft indirect lighting appeal to Americans, as does the restaurant's high ceiling.

Other American influences, such as the option of being able to use a fork instead of chop sticks or using a spoon to eat miso soup rather than picking up the bowl and sipping it Japanese-style, can be found in the restaurant.

The food, however, is authentic all the way.

Benetto, a Japanese "lunch box" that contains a medley of tasty goodies, is a favorite among both regular and new customers.

Patrons also can find donburi (rice), tempura (deep-fried fish or vegetables) and udong (noodles) on the menu.

Die-hard Japanese food lovers will recognize the cucumber salad with octopus, not to mention the sushi, which can be ordered a la carte.

Less adventurous souls have the option of ordering chicken, pork, beef or fish entrees.

At first, the Jungs said they were conservative with the variety of traditional dishes they offered. Recently, however, the two made plans to expand the restaurant's menu to include more appetizers and chicken-based dishes.

The restaurant's lunch and dinner menus vary slightly. Youngsun Jung said while lunch is usually served quickly, customers get a more traditional feel for true Japanese service during regular dinner hours.

Haruno has 10 full-time and 3 part-time employees who help keep things running smoothly Monday through Saturday when the restaurant is open.

The Jungs are hands-on managers, however, and one or both of them are present during lunch or dinner.

The Jungs didn't have any experience running a restaurant before they opened Haruno.

Prior to moving to Springfield, John Dongwook Jung was a computer science major at the University of Missouri-Columbia, and Youngsun Jung studied art.

The two said they occasionally look to their parents for help or rely on their business partner in California for advice.

Still, good cooking and hard work have laid a foundation for the Jungs, who say they believe their restaurant is already a success.