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Above, Mama's Trio is among the most popular items with generous portions of chicken Parmesan, lasagna and chicken cannelloni. Below, Bruce Swisshelm Jr., director of operations for Macaroni Grill owner Swisshelm Group Inc., showcases the restaurant's wines and cheeses.
Above, Mama's Trio is among the most popular items with generous portions of chicken Parmesan, lasagna and chicken cannelloni. Below, Bruce Swisshelm Jr., director of operations for Macaroni Grill owner Swisshelm Group Inc., showcases the restaurant's wines and cheeses.

After 5 Restaurant Review: Romano's Macaroni Grill

Posted online
Each generation seems to lay claim to an Italian chain restaurant. If the Greatest Generation thinks fondly of Red Lobster and the Baby Boomers go through phases with Zio’s and Olive Garden, then Gens X and Y have discovered Macaroni Grill.

That may explain why people were willing to wait an hour or more for a seat during its first few months of operation in Springfield. It may explain why we know of twentysomethings who fly into Kansas City deliberately for a night on the town with friends, and they choose to go to Macaroni Grill. It’s not that its trendy – or necessarily that unusual – as much as it is an experience.

Tips for first-timers

We have visited the Macaroni Grill in Springfield three times, plus Kansas City and St. Louis. Here’s what we have learned:

First, order one of the specialty teas. Our server on a recent visit recommended the mint blackberry combination, and it was a winner. So are the raspberry, mango and peach.

Second, when bread is served, ask for a little cheese and balsamic vinegar to be added to the olive oil and cracked pepper – what Macaroni Grill likes to call its own “Italian butter.”

Now it’s time for entrées. Our favorite was the eggplant Parmesan ($8.49) that our friend Diana ordered. A self-professed eggplant expert, she declared it one of the best – fresh, cooked just right, and a nice complement to the angel hair pasta.

The menu choices are, of course, heavily pasta, but there are a few steak and fish dishes. Paul had the grilled salmon ($15.29), which turned out to be beautifully scored and slightly crispy, with a flavorful honey-teriyaki glaze. All four of us tried a bite and pronounced it a close second.

The other two dishes were so-so. We should have listened to our server, who was ready with recommendations we ignored.

In this case, our biggest disappointment was in the lobster ravioli ($15.49) Ed ordered. We were hard-pressed to find any lobster flavor, let alone any lobster. The ravioli were flat and slightly rubbery, and the lemon flavor was overpowering. The shrimp, however, were tasty and plentiful, and the asparagus was tender and delicious.

The shrimp scampi ($13.99) also was a dish we’ll skip in the future. It was attractive in presentation, and the shrimp was flavorful, but the linguine was chewy, the bell peppers were an odd match to the garlic, and the overall mix of flavors just didn’t work.

Our previous experiences with the pasta Milano, Mama’s Trio and Marsala chicken ravioli have been winners. The lesson here: Follow your server’s advice.

In addition to the meals mentioned, Macaroni Grill also serves brick-oven pizzas, sandwiches, and a “create-your-own pasta.” In fact, the restaurant is totally flexible on substitutions and inventions. We talked with Angie Curran, the manager on duty, who told us, “If we have it in the building, we can make it for you.”

Sweet ambiance

Macaroni Grill is a great place for pure atmosphere.

It’s the type of atmosphere where 25 people can walk in without notice and all be seated at one long table. It’s where a broken plate brings cheers in the kitchen, and where guests can watch as their double-stacked lasagna is made fresh in an open-flame brick oven. And, it’s where your server keeps the glasses full and the service attentive.

When we went on a Monday night, there were three birthdays celebrated (including Paul’s), complete with a free piece of chocolate cake and “Happy Birthday” sung beautifully in Italian. We were treated to fireside seats, with both a male and female host taking turns on the hearth singing Italian opera. Oh, and the birthday cake was huge, with sauce, nuts and buds of whipped cream in just the right amounts.

Speaking of dessert, we tried two others (both $5.79) this time: the new three-berry tiramisu, offering lemon cake layered with fruity mascarpone and cream, topped with crushed almond biscotti; and the amaretto apple “crispetti,” which had a hint of citrus in the buttery almond sauce and was declared worth coming back for on its own. The three-berry dessert triggers a $1 donation to Meals-on-Wheels through March 31.

Paul K. Logsdon is director of public relations and publications for Evangel University, and Kay Logsdon is director of the Food Channel for Noble. They have written restaurant reviews for 25 years.

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