After 5: Restaurant Review: Haruno

“Did you see they have steak and lobster?” one exclaims, while the other says, “How do you pronounce ‘Karai’ steak?” So when we skipped ahead to the desserts, we did a double take to make sure we were in the right restaurant. After all, tiramisu and crème brûlée in a traditional Japanese setting?

Our waiter, Josh, grins and says, “I know we’re Japanese, but we love it.”

We shouldn’t skip ahead to dessert when there are plenty of other good parts to this novel experience. For example, the Oh My God roll ($13.95 for eight pieces), tasted as decadent as it sounds. It was shrimp tempura and crab wrapped with seaweed and rice then layered with slices of shrimp and avocado, with a spicy sesame sauce that caramelized in its foil boat while we watched the flames subside.

We could have chosen the “Incredible” roll, the “Pink Panther” roll, or even the ironic “Finding Nemo” roll, but we went with both the recommendation from Josh and the “P” for most popular that is printed right on the sushi sheet.

If you choose to pass on the sushi, try any of the other appetizers, including grilled scallops ($10.50) or spring rolls ($3.50). We were tempted by the gyoza (pork dumplings) that had been a recognizable staple on a trip to Japan, but we had to try the sushi.

For our entrees, we asked Josh for his recommendations. He was very knowledgeable, suggesting the white tuna steak, grilled with garlic and seven Japanese spices ($19). We ordered that, along with the Karai steak ($19, and pronounced “care-I” with a slight roll of the tongue), with its intriguing description of “top sirloin grilled with cream cheese and tomatoes topped with a creamy garlic wasabi sauce.” We considered both dishes a stretch from the usual Japanese bento box, and found out later that Haruno is reaching out for more eclectic fare to be served in its new Kai restaurant downtown (see below).

All Haruno entrees (ranging from $16 for grilled salmon to $30 for the steak and lobster tail combo) come with a garden salad topped with a light ginger dressing, miso soup and rice.

The tuna was a special treat, with flavors that exploded on the tongue. There’s just no better word for it – we both agreed it was excellent as well as beautifully presented.

The truly adventuresome may want to try the unagi (grilled eel) and tempura combination ($20) or the bulkogi (beef in a sesame ginger sauce) lettuce wraps ($16); otherwise, opt for the seafood tempura ($17).

Here’s an insider tip, too: you can ask for dishes that aren’t on the menu. Josh offered the donburi, a popular lunch dish that dresses up well for dinner. It’s steak or chicken served on a bed of rice with teriyaki sauce, then steamed with onion, an egg and seaweed.

For dessert, choose from mochi ice cream – green tea, mango or strawberry ice cream served in a phyllo-type dough ($4) – crème brûlée ($6), which was perfectly crusty and not too sweet, or tiramisu ($6.50).

Any of these desserts are a fitting ending to the more cosmopolitan palates that Haruno has helped to educate over the years. During their eight years of doing business in Springfield, Haruno’s owners John Jung and Young Jun have contributed significantly to programs such as Springfield Sister Cities, including providing food during several of the Japanese Fall Festivals – and giving many people their first taste of edamame or yakitori.

Haruno is tucked away on Fremont just south of Battlefield, on the east side of the road. Named to honor Springfield (“haru” is “spring” in Japanese) as their chosen home, the owners and manager have done it right.

Haruno is a novel experience with a satisfying conclusion. We can’t wait for the sequel.

Paul K. Logsdon is Director of Public Relations and Publications for Evangel University. Kay Logsdon is Director of the Food Channel. They have done restaurant reviews for various publications over the last 25 years and enjoy keeping up on Springfield’s culinary opportunities.

Haruno Japanese Sushi Bar & Grill, and Haruno Next Door

Address: 3044 S. Fremont Ave., Springfield, MO 65804

Reservations: (417) 887-0077

Information: www.harunosushi.com

History: Founded in 1999 by Young Jun and John Jung.

Features: Sushi and fresh seafood.

Amenities: The sushi bar with expert chefs working out in the open; live jazz on weekends.

Price points: Dinner ranges from under $10 to $30.

Drinks: Haruno Next Door has a sports bar atmosphere.

Ambience: Casual elegance. The restaurant seats 200.

Hours: Lunch is 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; dinner is 4:30–midnight, with extended hours at Haruno Next Door. Closed on Sunday.

Parking: Curbside.

Haruno’s Downtown

The Haruno team is opening a new restaurant called Kai, on the corner of McDaniel Street and Campbell Avenue in downtown Springfield. Kai will differentiate from Haruno by offering more modern Japanese food. “We see a new market for more varieties of fish,” says Manager Phil Lee, adding that chefs downtown will experiment more with sauces, including nontraditional concepts such as wasabi with honey mustard.

Lee specifies that the large quantity of fresh fish they buy allows them this expansion. “Our sales are such that we can get the premium blue fin tuna,” which he says is more tender with better flavor. “We want to take advantage of that and broaden our client segmentation,” he adds.