After 5: Restaurant Review: Doe's Eat Place

Many discussions today start with, "In this economy."

In this economy, you are willing to spend a little more for small luxuries, since the bigger ones are out of the question. In this economy, customer service is returning because business is remembering it needs loyal patrons. In this economy, local takes priority. In this economy, it's about adding another dimension - flavor, experience or value.

All of these are especially true in food. And all of them are found in the Doe's Eat Place experience.

The steak restaurant located a block east of National Avenue on East Trafficway is unobtrusive, unpretentious and undeniably talked about. On this Tuesday night, we come straight from work, and fit right in - one of us dressed in jeans and cowboy boots.

The food

There are three of us for dinner, including Kay's sister, Carole Eldridge, and we start our meal with a small order of tamales.

Tamales at a steak place? It is a bit of a disconnect for us, but it seems appropriate to start at Doe's roots. It's obvious Springfield General Manager Dennis Fowler gets a lot of questions about it, and he reels off the history without a cheat sheet. "We even have our own tamale factory," he says. "It's a broken-down gas station in Augusta, Ark., where three ladies make the tamales."

A half-dozen good-size tamales are piled on a plate with a side cup of homemade chili. Carole lived in Texas for 30 years and served as our expert on the South. "The Tex Mex have a thinner wrap; the Deep South kind are more cornmeal and a bit grittier," she says. "These are definitely Deep South tamales."

We also try the crab and corn bisque, which is spicier than a traditional bisque but very much keeps with the flavors of Doe's. It has good-size chunks of crab and, like the gumbo on the menu, is made fresh.

For our entrees, we order just two steaks for the three of us. Splitting is OK; they'll even divide the steak and cook it to different temperatures when possible. And they provide two salads and sides without any plate charge at all. In a values-based economy, all of a sudden an expensive steak is 50 percent off.

We order the popular porterhouse ($24 a pound, 2-pound minimum) and the filet (petite is $29), which comes with a marinated salad, a choice of potato and southern-style drop biscuits reminiscent of fritters.

Doe's also offers rib eye, T-bone and sirloin steaks, plus a salmon or shrimp dinner. All steaks are broiled in an open cooking area. "See those broilers?" Fowler asks. "Some restaurants have gone to infrared grilling. These gas arms you see don't get to as high a heat, which enhances the flavor. The drippings come right through and are filtered, then put back on your steak so you don't lose any of the flavor."

We agree. The filet combined with sautéed button mushrooms is a memorable combination. Both steaks were fork tender with crispy edges and a moist interior.

The ambiance

The restaurant is themed like a sports bar, with vinyl tablecloths. Unusual memorabilia, such as golf towels from as far as Pebble Beach to as close as Branson Creek, hang on the walls. Cinderblock walls face plenty of glass storefront, which lets in sunshine. Wi-Fi is available for those who want to work while they eat.

While low-key in appearance, Doe's is upscale in everything else. It can accommodate 160 for a banquet and offers two semiprivate rooms and one private room.

The parking is well signed and a gentleman's agreement with the neighbors allows evening parking. Reservations are suggested for weekends, particularly for parties of five or more.

Speaking of weekends, that's when bread pudding is on the dessert menu; they make it from scratch, usually on a Friday or Saturday.

Paul K. Logsdon is director of public relations and publications for Evangel University, and Kay Logsdon is director of the Food Channel for Noble. They have written restaurant reviews for 25 years.