After 5: Autentica Cucina Italiana: Ristorante Gilardi's

For the rest of you, here’s what should have been in your stocking: A trip to Gilardi’s Ristorante, a fixture on East Walnut Street since 1998.

We ran into Fulp as we were leaving Gilardi’s, and he confided that he was there to buy gift certificates for his management team. We observed that he was warmly embraced by owner Nicola Gilardi – a gesture that was repeated as “regulars” came in throughout the evening.

Case in point are Lee and Wanda Gilbert of Springfield, who have dinner at Gilardi’s every Monday night and who plan to take family there as part of their Christmas celebration. “How long have we been coming here? Well, let’s see. How old is Nicky?” they ask Nicola, referring to the owner’s 7-year-old son. “We started coming before he was born.”

Family environment may be Gilardi’s signature, but let’s not overlook the menu. After checking it out online and reading reviews lauding the pork shank, crab-stuffed trout, house pastas, salmon and steaks, we knew we would have a difficult time selecting just one entree.

The meal

The specials this night included a sashimi-grade ahi tuna, a tilapia and pumpkin-stuffed ravioli.

Three special appetizers were offered in addition to the menu selection, and we chose the seafood cakes ($10.95), which had four delectable pieces with a cream sauce sprinkled with corn and black beans.

Agreeing to share, we ordered a filet (the Filetto Gorgonzola; $29.95), which turned out to be a beautiful 8-ounce center cut, done to a perfect medium and covered with a gorgonzola cheese cream sauce, plus the homemade Gnocchi di Patate ($14.95). The steak came with a side of pasta (for an up-charge of $2.95) and a hefty knife that wasn’t needed – the steak could literally be cut with a fork. A second side of wilted spinach with pungent cloves of garlic was an extra treat.

As for the gnocchi, we were offered our choice of white or red sauce, and, in spite of our server Andrew’s recommendation to combine the sauces for a creamy red sauce, we asked for each to be on the side so we could distinguish the flavors. That was our first glimpse of Nicola, who appeared at our table to ask if he could simply toss a plate of each, saying, “It will be better.” We ended up with two sizable plates of the delicious potato dumplings and went back and forth between the two so often that we might as well have just combined the sauces to start.

For dessert, we took the obvious choice of the Fondente ($6), a flourless chocolate torte with a crispy exterior, hint of cinnamon and flowing center, served with ice cream. A cup of coffee balanced the flavors and kept us from drifting into contented oblivion. Other choices included tiramisu, cheesecake, mango sorbet and Italian specialties, such as cannoli and spumoni.

The ambiance

The restaurant’s décor is most about the people and great food, although it’s impossible to be anything but charming in its Victorian setting.

As we chatted with various patrons who were eager to share their Gilardi’s experiences, we discovered the center of business travel in Springfield – every other person was an out-of-towner here to combine a little dining pleasure with their business. Jonathan Kreissler, an AT&T employee from Golden City, is among those who stay at the nearby Walnut Street Inn and follow the sidewalk down to Gilardi’s. “It’s a nice atmosphere, quiet, and I can come in my work clothes,” he says. “They respect that here.”

Our food bill rang up at $71.20, plus tip.

The gentle clink of stainless on china, the subtle Christmas music and the laughter as the quintessential Italian host greeted his patrons combine with the food to make Gilardi’s a memorable dining experience, perfect for the business traveler and locals alike. In fact, Nicola estimates that 70 percent of the people who come in are regulars.

Kay Logsdon is director of the Food Channel, an affiliate of Noble, and Paul K. Logsdon is director of public relations and publications for Evangel University. The Logsdons have crafted restaurant reviews for various publications during the last 25 years.

Ristorante Gilardi’s

Address: 820 E. Walnut St., Springfield, MO 65806

Phone: (417) 862-6400

Web: www.gilardis.com

History: Founded in 1998 by Nicola Gilardi of Chiavenna, Italy.

Unique feature: 70 percent of the clientele are “regulars” who are known by name and menu choice.

Price points: Entrees range from $12.95 (pastas) to $29.95 (filet).

Drinks: The restaurant has a bar that seats eight and a wine list offered by the glass ($5.95) or the bottle (from $19.95 to a $280.95 Tenuta del Ornellaia from Tuscany).

Ambience: Casual elegance. The main room can seat 40 diners and a side room for special events holds up to 60.

Hours: The restaurant opens at 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday; Sunday and lunch hours are available upon request.

Parking: There are creative spots tucked behind the Victorian house that fronts Gilardi’s and parking spots along Walnut Street. The restaurant is actually the carriage house and not the main building.

Reservations: Call (417) 862-6400. You can request a certain table. (Nos. 2 and 3 are by the electric fireplace).

Reviews: See online reviews at foodchannel.com, travel.yahoo.com, planet99.com, chefmoz.org and tripadvisor.com.

Second Opinion

Lee Gilbert came in first, and Nicola Gilardi leaned over the bar to ask him, “Where’s your wife? I can make that special request of hers tonight if she wants it.”

Wanda Gilbert was just rounding the corner, ready to settle into the same table that they occupy each Monday night at Gilardi’s Ristorante.

She did, indeed, want the special dish – fettuccine with shrimp and mushrooms, which she had seen Nicola make during a noon news segment on KY3. It was a departure from her usual tilapia. Although she says she likes “anything on the menu,” Wanda Gilbert generally goes for the tilapia or pork shank.

“Our daughter usually hates duck, but she adores it here,” she says. “He makes anything taste wonderful.”

Lee Gilbert, who is CEO of Mid-Missouri Bancshares Inc., says they moved to Springfield from Lebanon for expansion in 1999. “Our departments have their Christmas dinners at Gilardi’s,” he says. “They all want the flourless chocolate cake.”

Only Online: Nicola Gilardi’s recipe for pumpkin-stuffed ravioli