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Wine Review: Big chicken wines hit the market

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The latest vintage of big chicken wines are now entering the marketplace.

HRM Rex-Goliath Winery chose for its namesake His Royal Majesty Rex Goliath, the record-setting, largest-known rooster who weighed in at a finger-licking 47 pounds.

Whatever drove the winemakers to name their products after a big chicken — OK, rooster — is beyond my understanding, but the selections do pass muster. They are well made and exceed the quality one might expect from their price points.
HRM Rex-Goliath Cabernet Sauvignon ($12)
This soft cabernet sauvignon needs no time to age away any rough edges or imperfections. The aroma displays cedar and oak, with hints of raspberry, plum, chocolate and currant that carry on to the flavor and to the rather long finish. It has true cab flavor and aroma.
HRM Rex-Goliath Pinot Noir ($12)
This wine is an exception to the unwritten axiom that most pinot noirs below the $15 price range are poor. It exhibits all of the properties and charms the grape is capable of without bringing out any of the negative features often found in its less expensive cousins. Big in flavor and dark in color, this wine exhibits an open and obvious dark cherry flavor and aroma, coupled with oak and spice. Try it with delicate meat or baked fish dishes.
HRM Rex-Goliath Chardonnay ($12)
This wine is another happy exception to the basic rule of less expensive wines being of low class and even lower quality. While it may be in the affordable category, the wine is nothing at all like many of the others in the same price range. The wine presents the true and classical chardonnay aromas of apple and pear with a hint of pineapple. In the mouth, these aromas give way to tropical fruits and melon that are perfectly combined with mild oak. This chardonnay is a great choice for healthy meals.
HRM Rex-Goliath Sauvignon Blanc ($12)
Sauvignon blancs come and go, but this one is sure to remain in the memory for a long time because of its smoothness and accentuated fruit flavors. This wine adds new interest to a variety that has become humdrum in recent years. The traditional flavors and aromas of citrus and grass abound along with a hint of melon. The wine pairs well with seafood.
HRM Rex-Goliath Free Range Red ($12)
Take zinfandel, blend it with syrah and you have the HRM Rex-Goliath Free Range Red. The medium-bodied red wine has the fruit of a red zinfandel and the finesse and charm of a syrah. The flavors of raspberry and blackberry and a soft spicy background derived from the syrah meld with the bright raspberry of the zinfandel component. The beauty of this wine is that it can accompany a huge spectrum of foods from the darkest of meats to full-flavored seafood dishes.

Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages He can be reached at

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