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Wine Review: Vermouth adds galaxy of flavors to cocktails

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Vermouth, a fortified wine developed about 500 years ago, has become the essential ingredient for the world’s most famous mixed drink, the martini.

The exact formula for making vermouth is a closely guarded secret of the individual producers, but basically it is made from of an infusion (soaking in alcohol) of roots, barks, flowers, seeds, herbs and spices. It is truly the poster child for conservation because it is made up of things we would normally throw away. Regardless of its makeup, it is one of the most popular components for mixed drinks in the world.

The origin of vermouth is strongly debated among France and Italy, both of which claim it. The other question is, does the quality and type of vermouth really make a significant difference in the finished drink? The answer is a big fat yes.

The French, being French, cannot be satisfied with an ordinary vermouth but must, by national pride, make something special out of it.

The La Quintinye Vermouth Royal is the Gallic answer to the commonplace. So what is it that makes the La Quintinye Vermouth Royal so special? It’s made by using a novel base into which the makers steep their ingredients called pineau des charentes, a fortified wine made by mixing fresh grape juice with Cognac.

What results is one vermouth capable of adding a galaxy of flavors to cocktails that may have become a bit boring in recent years.

La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Rouge ($22/750 mL, $15/375 mL)
Made from a selection of 28 plants and spices and a blend of white wines and red pineau des charentes, La Quintinye Rouge displays a bouquet of licorice and prune flavors, wrapped in a berry and chocolate-toffee effect with vanilla and spice lying in the background. The mixture produces a mixed drink that is both interesting and long on the palate.

La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Blanc ($22/750 mL, $15/375 mL)
This vermouth is made by combining 18 plants and botanicals with a blend of white wines and white pineau des charentes. What results is powerful vermouth stressing fresh lemon and light summer fruit aromas.

La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Extra-Dry ($22/750 mL, $15/375 mL)
The producers of La Quintinye Vermouth went a bit overboard in producing this selection by combining 27 plants and spices, with a selection of white wines and white pineau des charentes. Spices and licorice do a carousel dance around the aromas of flowers and citrus, ending in a burst of flavors.

The London No. 1 Gin ($36)
While we are on the subject of martinis, what about the gin? It would be criminal to use a lower quality gin with such fine vermouths, so we took a look at some of the other gins on the market.

Pale turquoise blue in color, the London No. 1 Gin has been triple-distilled to insure purity, then infused with botanicals to reflect the delightful scents of juniper berries and balsamic aromas. This is a complex gin that combines the flavors of old style classical gins with the modern desire for big and bold flavors. It is a great choice as the basic ingredient in an upscale martini.

G’Vine Floraison ($36)
If you are going to be using a French vermouth, why not team it up with a French gin? This French gin, while made in the traditional manner, has had an extra ingredient added - flowers. What results is a sweet, smooth gin expressing the flavors of juniper, cardamom and ginger, as well as the floral taste of green grape flowers. The finish reprises the floral taste and is long, clean and dry.

Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at frojhe@suddenlink.net.

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