Wine Review: Sicilian wines misunderstood

I believe the worst thing that has ever happened to the island of Sicily was not war or earthquake or volcano or pestilence. It was the movie “The Godfather.”

In the days of political correctness, Sicilians were cast in a bad light. While famous for their olive oil and their style of foods, they are rarely complimented or even mentioned for their fine wines.

Sicily is located just west of the Italian boot and, based on its climate, the island should not be a place that can produce fine wine grapes. That last statement leaves one big hole in it. Sicily has high mountains and therefore places with a cooler, more grape-friendly climate. Lush valleys, that are blessed by the soft Mediterranean Sea breezes, have been producing wine grapes for centuries.

For some unknown reason, Sicilian wines have never attained the international fame or popularity as have some of their mainland compatriots.

I believe the reason also may have originated in the distant past, in ancient Rome. It may be hard to believe, but ancient Rome was very similar to today's societies. It had politics, snobs and riots. About the only thing that was missing was the internet.

In ancient Rome, it was a sign of affluence to own wine from foreign vineyards, mainly from Gaul (France). Roman politicians or affluent citizens often were judged by the size and value of their wine cellar rather than their abilities. Since water was unsafe as a beverage, wine was the drink of choice. The patricians had their foreign – and, therefore, more costly – wines while the plebeians had to make do with the local, more affordable wines. This situation relegated the wines of Sicily to the common folk and nothing more.

Today, Sicilian wines are being rediscovered and have found their place among the world of wines. I would like to introduce you to the very affordable and food friendly wines from Irmana of Sicily.

Irmana Grillo ($13)
Grillo is a white grape variety that is indigenous to Sicily, and the first sip of its wine may invoke the thought “where have you been all my life?” The aroma is complex, with apple and lemon zest and a distinct and enticing mineral element. The mineral carries through to the flavor where it melds with tropical fruits and apples. The finish is an Italian masterpiece displaying a host of tropical fruits – its signature minerality and the suggestion of honey. This is a white wine that makes its own statement as it can accompany any white or pink sauce Italian dishes. As for me, I enjoyed this wine in an old Italian way, accompanying bread dipped in spiced olive oil.

Irmana Frappato ($13)
Frappato is another Sicilian grape that is little known outside of the island. Why this grape variety has yet seen the light of day in the world of wine, I do not know, as I found it’s interesting and enjoyable. The wine has a light body, reminiscent of a young pinot noir. The aroma reflects summer berries, mainly blackberries, cranberries and blueberries, along with fresh spices. The flavor is a huge basket of almost every summer red fruit or berry, plus the Sicilian red wine signature of spice. This wine is not the usual red wine; it explores characteristics that many red wines would like to emulate but rarely achieve. The producers recommend the wine be served slightly chilled, a procedure that I recommend for every red wine. When the archaic term room temperature is mentioned, it is not referring to a room in our modern centrally heated and air-conditioned homes. The rooms in question were in 18th century homes with nothing to keep them warm but a fireplace.

Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.