Business Lunch Review, Part II: On the Clock

We carried it to school in tin boxes. We carried it on cafeteria trays during college. Some of you – you know who you are – stole it from co-workers out of the office refrigerator. But now we’re all grown up, and we go out to lunch.

Many Springfield restaurants count on the lunch crowd to make their margins, and they are reinventing the business lunch to try to attract the market. Here are three more Springfield restaurants known for being good to the business crowd.

Ocean Zen
Rating: Five out of five forks, for great food, space and comfort

In a town with plenty of Asian-influenced restaurants, Ocean Zen, at 600 E. Battlefield Road, stands out for its unique flavor combinations, ambience and good service.

And now, a new menu item might give you another reason to go: the Oven Baked Four Cheese Lobster Macaroni and Cheese with Grilled Garlic Cheese Bread ($10.95) – billed by our server, Duran, as “a nice warm blanket of goodness.” This is comfort at its best.

Following the trend toward comfort food updated with high-end items (thus, the lobster with an everyday staple like mac & cheese), this includes the grand slam of comfort: it’s partnered with a grilled cheese sandwich and a cup of tomato basil soup. You’ll go back to the office feeling like Mom just made it all better.

Of course, the favorites still work. The salad with crisp Asian pears and baby organic greens ($5.95) has candied pecans, mission figs and honey balsamic vinaigrette. Pasta is popular, too, with the Garlic & Herb Crusted Shrimp Linguini and the Applewood Bacon Wrapped Scallop & Shrimp Pasta. For Asian food, go ahead and order the Crispy Orange Glazed Sirloin, the Pad Thai Noodles, or the Crispy Wok Chicken. All sauces are made in-house.

The presentation of each dish is classically beautiful, reflecting the surroundings, which include a large salt-water tank showcasing the bright neon colors and live coral reef.

It’s the kind of place that is simply good for business, in every sense of the word.

Bruno's
Rating: Four-and-a-half out of five forks, for food and ambience befitting the big city

At Bruno’s, 416 South Ave., there was a feeling that we were retreating off the downtown street into a haven, surrounded by painted murals and touches of old Italy. The high tin ceiling, warm lighting, hanging live plants, artwork and wood floors all added to that aura.

The food hits the mark, too. Downtown aficionados know about the Chicken and Nutty Orzo Herb Salad ($7.95), made of orzo pasta tossed with almonds. And they may have tried the Panino with Sicilian Sausage ($6.95). But they may not have tried the house specialty of Scaloppine di Maiale al Marsala—pork scaloppini with a mixed vegetable patty. Our server, Chad, described it as the best thing on the menu.

Meals come with fresh bread served with a nice olive oil, balsamic vinegar and sun-dried tomatoes. The canoli is made in-house and comes with candied orange peel and an unexpected espresso cream filling.

Enjoy lunch in the closest thing to Italy you’ll find in downtown Springfield.

Metropolitan Grill
Rating: Two-and-a-half out of five forks, for nice looks but iffy execution

Metropolitan Grill, 2931 E. Battlefield Road, has adorned its newly decorated walls with photos of local celebs and even named a few menu items after them.

Be prepared for a hefty tab and slightly ostentatious service. Not that the food isn’t good, it’s just that it misses the mark for the price point.

Our server, who shall remain nameless, was slow and inattentive. We ordered the strip steak ($20, with two sides). While beautifully presented, it was overcooked to the point of being dry and tasteless. When we pointed this out, our server shrugged.

We ordered the James salad (with chicken, $13), billed as spinach, warm bacon-date dressing, with strawberries and artichoke hearts, feta, caramelized onions and toasted Focaccia. It was lovely to behold, but the dressing was in short supply, and we couldn’t find an artichoke.

We won’t return, at least not until the eatery gives as much homage to the customer and the food as it does to cute names and trendy décor.

Paul K. Logsdon is director of public relations and publications for Evangel University, and Kay Logsdon is director of the Food Channel for Noble. They have written restaurant reviews for 25 years.[[In-content Ad]]