The Greeks have been making wine since the toga was the fashion expression of the day.
Greek wine has gained a bad reputation among oenophiles because of confusing Greek wines of antiquity with those of today.
In olden times, the toga-wearing Greeks would mix a bit of tree resin and water with their wines. The reason for that mix was that the amphoras - ancient Greek bottles - were sealed with pine resin and some of the resin would mix with the wine. Apparently the Greeks became accustomed to the resin flavor and a style called retsina evolved.
The thought of a modern wine drinker mixing anything with their wine is abhorrent. Today’s Greek wines are pure with nothing added unless the bottle is labeled retsina, which is still made for local consumption. What makes the modern Grecian wines interesting is they are most often made from local grapes.
I approached these wines with a bit of trepidation because I’d never encountered them before. All of the sampled Greek wines were white and all were well made. If you are a true wine lover, it is almost a demand that you try these wines to broaden your horizons and awareness of what is on the market besides the same old thing from the same old place.
Biblia Chora Estate Areti White ($23)
If this is what Greek wines are like, lead us to them. This wine has the appearance of a savignon blanc but displays a deeper, more interesting flavor and aroma. Made from local assyrtiko grapes, the color is pale gold and displays the aromas of lemon and grapefruit without the grass associated with a savignon blanc. While the citrus carries over to the flavor, it is balanced by a definite sensation of almonds. The finish is also long and clean. The producer suggests this is the wine for shell fish of all types but specifically points out oysters, clams and mussels. While comparison with savignon blanc is natural because of the color, this wine makes a more positive flavor and aroma statement.
Gerovassiliou Estate Malagousia ($23)
Malagousia is another local white wine grape that takes a different flavor and aroma direction from the Areti White by presenting a host of fresh summer fruits. Pineapple, peach and pear are the most obvious aromas, while citrus comfortably resides in the background. It is citrus that is most obvious in the flavor, but there also is an interesting, almost indefinable flavor that carries through to the finish. If you are the adventurous type, try this wine.
Ktimatselepos Manitina ($17)
Another white from Greece, but this time the vineyard was located on the Peloponnesus, the ancient home of the Spartans. Here, too, it is summer flowers and citrus that are the most obvious, backed up by the ever-present citrus. These aromas follow through to the flavor and then on to the exceptional finish.
Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at ben@articlesonwine.com.
