There are two wines whose merits and demerits have been praised, discussed and argued over for centuries more than any other wines: cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.
In recent years, it has been chardonnay that’s taken the brunt of the criticism because so many new white wine varieties have appeared on the market. Some critics of the variety have even gone so far as to form the ABC Club, aka Anything But Chardonnay. However, they have not been able to dethrone chardonnay as the queen of the white. Why the gender reference? History has shown that women prefer white wines over red.
It appears part of the loss in popularity was due to simple economics.
The price for better quality chardonnay grapes has been as high as a staggering $3,000 per ton. With an approximate yield of 756 bottles of wine per ton, that makes the cost of the grapes alone $3.97 per bottle. Next, add the costs of processing, fermenting and aging barrels (about $600 each), bottling, labeling and shipping - and you can understand why some wines are more pricey than others.
To support its belief in the variety, Wente Vineyards - long famed for quality wines - just released three chardonnays that explore all of the facets and nuances of the variety.
Wente 2014 Eric’s Small Lot Chardonnay ($25)
This is one of the best chardonnays this columnist has tasted in a very long time. I’ve sampled so many mediocre and even downright poor chardonnays in recent years to become almost indifferent to the variety and perhaps even jaded. This wine has changed all of that. The Wente 2014 Eric’s Small Lot Chardonnay is not bold or overpowering. Rather, it’s a comfortable wine that combines all the elements of a great chardonnay into a mellow, soft, flavorful and easy-to-drink beverage. The aroma clearly displays the scents of pears, apples and vanilla with a hint of roasted nuts in the background. The flavor is bright, fruity and crisp, accenting green apples and pears. The finish is soft and possesses a toast-like element.
Wente Riva Ranch 2014 Arroyo Seco Chardonnay ($22)
This wine is typical of all the wines from Wente: well made and elegant. Throughout the process of making this wine, extra care was taken in regards to the selection of the grapes and winemaking procedures. All of this tender loving care resulted in a wine of great character and distinction. The wine features green apple and tropical fruit in both the aroma and flavor. Coupled with this is a positive oak and vanilla flavor. Unlike many of the lesser chardonnays, this wine has a long, fruity and captivating finish. Try this wine with seafood as well as almost any poultry-based dishes.
Wente Morning Fog 2015 Estate Grown Chardonnay ($18)
This wine is just too bright and happy to be believed. It seems to bubble with fruit and flavor. Wente Morning Fog is a full-bodied wine, heavy with the aromas of summer fruits, vanilla and oak. All of these aromas are continued into the flavor with the added sensation of big, ripe raisins. Like all of the Wente wines, there is a long and fruity finish that lasts in the mouth for many minutes after it has been swallowed. This may not be the wine for wine snobs - it’s not expensive enough - but it certainly can fill the bill when a chardonnay or fine sipping wine is desired.
Nixa resident Bennet Bodenstein is a wine columnist and manages ArticlesOnWine.com. He can be reached at ben@articlesonwine.com.
